12 May 2021
In
Hello dear hummingbird,
Today, we are going to start with a rather gourmet article since we are going to talk about the cocoa (#teamchocolatelover). The cocoa culture, although not very widespread and unfortunately still not very profitable in certain islands, holds an important place in the Caribbean.
A plant native to the Amazon, the cocoa tree, whose beans contained in the pods have multiple uses, was quickly integrated into the agricultural and cultural world of Amerindian societies from northern South America to the lowlands of Central America and southern Mexico.
Cacao is particularly associated with the most important events in life. From the rite of passage at puberty (during which the bodies of young boys were coated with a mixture of water, cocoa powder and flower petals) to marriage proposals and the cults of the God of Merchants, cacau and chacau haa are everywhere at the heart of Mayan civilization.
There sweet chocolate drink that we all know was born in the Carmelite Convent of Oaxaca when the Nuns replaced the chili pepper and corn with honey, musk and orange blossom water. The recipe was a huge success in New Spain (from the 16th century) and then in Europe. The honey was then replaced by sugar which was produced on site. The cocoa drink was so appreciated that new cocoa plantations see the light of day.
Shortly afterwards, the French also became interested in creating plantations in Martinique, where cocoa had already been introduced by a Portuguese Jewish merchant, Benjamin Dacosta, around 1660. The earthquake that struck the island in 1727 destroyed a large part of these very fragile shrubs, but despite this catastrophe the cocoa culture did not disappear from the island (and even spread to Guadeloupe and then to Guyana from 1730). However, it was often gradually supplanted by the cultivation of sugar cane, which is much more resistant.
There are different cocoa varieties, producing fruits called pods, the seeds of which will provide the cocoa beansThese pods have different characteristics that can determine the final quality of the chocolate.
– The forastero (80-90 % of world production) originating from the Amazon. Mainly cultivated in Africa, Brazil and Ecuador. Rustic variety.
- THE Creole (1-5 % of world production), originating from Venezuela. Cultivated in Latin America (Caribbean, Mexico, Venezuela, Colombia). Fine and aromatic, sweet and slightly bitter.
– The trinitario (10-20 % of world production), resulting from the crossing of the two previous ones, appeared in the 18th century in Trinidad to compensate for the losses caused by hurricanes in the criollo crops, more fragile. Fine aromas but less intense than the criollo.
– The national forastero, produced in Ecuador. Finer aromas than a common forastero.
- L'sweetened, a local Martinique cocoa bean, is an endemic variety better known as "Martinique Creole". The region is seeking to have it recognized by an AOC, which would allow its production to be revived.
The most common type of cocoa found in the Caribbean East the criollo. It is the rarest and most sought after of the beans.
They only cover 1 to 5 % of the world production. The main characteristics of this cocoa tree are its pale pink flower, with a yellow-orange or reddish-orange pod when they reach maturity. The surface of the fruit is rough. The beans obtained are plump, almost round, very light in color, sometimes even white. It has a faint, slightly bitter, fragrant aroma, with a delicate taste. After processing, we obtain very fine and aromatic cocoas. They are considered the best of cocoas and are the main ingredient used in luxury chocolates. These cocoa trees are generally only harvested twice a year, in June and December.
Martinique
The Valcaco association is trying to develop a structured exceptional sector by bringing together the various local stakeholders and promoting agroecological techniques without any use of phytosanitary products. There are three varieties of cocoa: criollo, forastero and trinitario.
Guadeloupe
In Guadeloupe, cocoa production was one of the first sources of wealth on the Leeward Coast, but it was wiped out in 1928 by one of the most violent cyclones in its history, with winds of over 230 km/h. During the reconstruction of the disaster-stricken islands, cocoa cultivation was replaced by other, more profitable crops. However, some artisans still transform local beans into chocolate, mainly sold directly in the form of kako* sticks. This traditional chocolate can be eaten grated in hot water and accompanied by spices such as cinnamon, vanilla or nutmeg.
Saint Lucia
In Saint Lucia, chocolate production still holds a prominent place in its development strategy because its development is closely linked to the island's new tourist activity. When the plantations closed, masters' houses were recycled into hotels or individual tourist rentals.
Aware of the potential of this very attractive product, closely linked to its local history, restaurants and spas also promote it. Chocolate has even become a key ingredient in the island's gastronomy.
Haiti
Haiti is slowly developing its cocoa sector in order to ensure better incomes for thousands of modest farmers and to break the stereotype of a gastronomic art reputed to be the preserve of rich countries. Haiti's annual production of 5,000 tons of cocoa pales in comparison to the 70,000 tons produced by the neighboring Dominican Republic. By installing its fermentation center in Acul-du-Nord in 2014, 15km from the country's second city, Cap-Haïtien, the company Produit des îles (Pisa) launched itself on the market.
Cocoa cultivation is suitable for agroforestry, a system in which it is possible or even necessary to plant other crops on the same plot than trees and/or introduce livestock. This contributes to pest control, fertilization, promotes balance but also allows the farmer to diversify his sources of income. It therefore contributes to biodiversity and respect for the soil.
If you live on (or visit) a cocoa-producing island, learn about production techniques and be sure to consume cocoa products:
*The West Indian Kako stick is a very old gastronomic tradition: after drying, the beans obtained are grilled before being pounded. A fatty paste is obtained which is shaped by hand into a stick by rolling it on itself. After drying in the open air so as to preserve its conical shape, the kako stick is packaged before being used to prepare the famous hot chocolate of the Antilles.
📚 :
https://www.chococlic.com/La-provenance-des-feves-de-cacao-des-Caraibes_a1488.html
https://www.caraibe-agricole.com/fr/decouverte/produits-pays/item/145-le-cacao-sort-des-oubliettes
http://www.odyssea.eu/data/?markerID=23090
https://www.kreyolbase.com/le-cacao-une-culture-davenir-pour-les-antilles/
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